2011 Andalucia - Cordoba

On to Cordoba on the impeccable train with the EUR1 Rioja. The journey is only 45min so we get off almost as soon as we got on.

Our hotel in Cordoba is far, and doesn't have a double non-smoking room. We take a twin grudgingly, and have a rest and a snack on the supermarket jamon, manchego and anchovy olives. When we wake up it's already dark so we chill in the bar with tea, sangria and a boca caramel, a sweet delicious liquour Jay spies at another table. A man comes over to talk to Jay about the drink, and tells us about himself. He is called Pepe Aguilar, is a jeweller, is flying tomorrow to Zurich and has studied in England in the 70's. He asks us if we feel we are British, or neither this nor that. The latter, is the general conclusion. He recommends us the Churrasco restaurant.

The next day we take the bus into Cordoba, which leaves us outside the old town. We have tea, fresh orange juice and churros, deep fried, a large portion for a small price. I'll never have churros again, there's more oil than dough.

We then go into the Juderia, the old town. We soon find the Mesquita, its tower is visible from everywhere. Inside, the double arches in white and red stripes are not only striking but overwhelming in number. It's a very large cathedral, an old mosque that still keeps its Mihrab, the Mecca-facing shrine. The audio guide tells us the Moorish king bought a chapel to convert it to a Mosque. It then grew organically with succesive Arab and Spanish kings.

We then stop for drinks and we try gazpacho and salmorejo at a restaurant near the Mezquita. Cold tomato soups, I don't like any. Maybe we didn't come across a good restaurant.

We then visit the Alcazar, the fortress with beautiful gardens and pools. It's warm, we are in short sleeves and bask in the sunshine.

We then look for the Museo Taurino, where there should be the tomb of a toreador and the hide of the bull who killed him, but it's closed for repairs.

We find the Synagogue and the St Bartholomew's Capilla, and a picturesque square with geraniums. the flowerpots say "Cordoba capital de la Cultura 2016". We then find the Callejon de Flores, with geraniums and a view of the Mesquita tower. We sit there for a while, it's a tourist trap but gets quiet, and has a fountain and an orange tree, and soft music from the souvenir shop. Cheesy, says Jay. I like it. I think it's only cheesy when you know it, but I don't.

We then head off to the Pza de la Corredera, a large market square which at 6pm has no stalls left but lots of tables with people having a drink and a chat. Children play and old couples walk by arm in arm.

We ask the ladies next to us for a restaurant and they recomend La Cazuela. At 8.30 when it opens we discover it was a very good choice. Jay is beaming. The grilled calamari and rabo de toro are delicious. The Pastel de Cordoba is awful and by now I've given up on Spanish sweets and pastries.