Tuesday 12 April 2011

2011 Andalusia - Malaga

Malaga - Apr 21, 2011


We got to the hotel after an uneventful trip by bus A from the airport. It was just after lunch so we went out for something to eat. We were just next to the bullring but most restaurants lose the kitchens for hot food around 2. We didn't know that, so we went for a short walk on the beach. People were sunbathing although it was about 20C. I picked a shell and we headed back to a restaurant. They still served drinks and tapas at the bar, cold salads or heated sauce stews, which were quite good for an initial impression of Spanish food. Six old ladies with white silk blouses and large pearl earrings all talk at the same time over coffee.



We then headed into town. We walked through a park of orange trees in bloom. All I could think was "I just want to be here." We then took a lift up to the top of the hill overlooking the port, where the Alcazaba fortress is. Beautifully detailed carving, stonework and gardens in bloom, and great views of the harbour.



We then strolled around the cathedral on to the Picasso museum, which was OK, but I think I've seen my quota of Picassos now. It had a few early works which show just how good a figurative painter he really was. I always enjoy seeing these side by side with the cubist work. It was the house where he was born but now only holds paintings, no personal objects.



We then sat down at a little Teteria on the same street as the museum, very busy and with outdoor tables, in front of a church of St Augustin. The menu is formidable with everything from afrodisiac tea to crepes and almond milkshake and cinnamon lassi. We vow to be back tomorrow for breakfast. (but discover it actually opens at 3pm - closes at 1am!!).



We then go back to our hotel - IGH Eliseos - which is clean and quiet, altough the bathroom smells funny. Jay finds a bullfight on TV and we watch the way the toreador frowns staring into the eyes of the bull, before digging the sword in his back. I go straight to bed and Jay goes out to watch some football - and God knows what else.



The next morning we have time before the train to Seville, which is at 2 We go to the Teteria, which is closed, and then end up having an elaborate breakfast in an elegant patisserie in Plaza de la Constitucion, in its little balcony overlooking the square. They make little pastry bites filled with mushrooms that remind me of home. Locals seem to just have coffee and toast, perhaps with a topping of ham or pate.



I then go on to visit the Cathedral, which is impressive, enormous and has beautiful gothic carvings. We then stop by at the supermarket next to the bullring, SuperSol, for jamon, manchego and olives filled with anchovies - aceitunas con anchoa.



We take the bus to the train station, where Jay is in love with Rioja and I with the colours in a home decoration shop. Rather than carry a parcel, I take a photo and leave.



The first train journey is impressive, they give us headphones to we can listen to a selection of music channels. Rioja is EUR1 on the train and Jay is happy. The soil is red and dotted with regular patterns of olive trees, lemon and orange trees with fruit on.